SARONIKOS KOLPOS (SARONIC GULF)
The islands of the Saronic Gulf make for a wonderful escape from Athens - as the Athenians know all too well, which is why many of them own houses on the islands. At weekends or at the height of
summer, visitors might be better advised to opt for an organized trip with guaranteed places, rather than run the risk of not being able to get a ticket for the overcrowded ferries. Once there, though,
there is plenty of opportunity for relaxation, for lying on beaches and strolling down small-town streets not jammed with traffic. If the streets are packed with other visitors, a short walk out of
each island's main town will quickly take you to the rural Greece of small villages, or farming and fishing communities, and an unhurried pace of life.
The nearest island, Salamis, is too close to Athens' industrial shores to offer safe swimming, but even here you have the opportunity to walk on country
roads rather than city streets, to see villages and pine forests -and all a few minutes and a few drachmas by ferry from Piraeus.
Much more attractive - and more popular and expensive -is Egina. The main town has a busy harbor, with shops and restaurants that cater to the many visiting Athenians, but there are some appealing
neo-classical buildings hidden away, and the island does have historical importance. Its early coinage became standard throughout the Greek world, the islanders invented a standard system of weights
and measures, and more recently it was of great strategic importance in the War of Independence against the Turks. Visitors should not miss the superb Sanctuary of Aphaia, about 12km from the main town.
The 5th-century BC temple is in ruins, but it has retained its atmosphere and offers a splendid view back to the city of Athens.
Poros is the next island, and while it is scarcely less crowded than Egina, it does start to give more of a feel of typical Greek island life - of tourism and taverns, of fishing and ferries It is also
only 400m from the Peloponnesian mainland, and a quick trip across on one of the small boats that sail back and forth offers an escape from crowds. A short walk away from the mainland village of Galatas is
the delightful Limonodhassos, where thousands of lemon trees scent the air and a small tavern offers a taste of fresh lemonade.
Hydra is a rocky island, but chic and expensive, the St Tropez of the Saronic Gulf. It is undeniably attractive, its one main town with many 19th¬century houses clustered round a harbor, and a total ban on
traffic - except for the island's dustcart. It has a wealthy past, and a reputation as an artistic retreat in the present: a pleasant place to spend a day or more, wandering round and relaxing.
Spetsai is the furthest distant of these islands, in fact tucked around the comer in the Argolic Gulf (Argolikos Kolpos). Distance doesn't mean an escape from the crowds, but it is a greener island than most,
with opportunities for walking. This island is renowned as the setting for the novel and film, The Magus, whose author John Fowles taught at the Anargyrios School, near the Spetses Hotel.
